Kne-Mida (In Scale) – IPMS Israel Magazine No. 59, 6/2013

Painting techniques: Simulating a wood effect By: Dmitriy Tubin
Many times when building a model we have to simulate it to look like a wood.

  1. Required materials: Tamiya XF-15 (odorless and dries out quickly), air brush, Vallejo primer, oil paints (primarily brown, dark red and mustard), wide paint brush No. 10 or 12, sponge, oil paint thinner.
  2. Start by spraying area with primer, and then use the Tamiya flesh color.
  3. After the paint is dry create a color palette on absorbent paper and let the paint dry for 10-20 minutes. Dip brush in oil paint and wipe with paper so that brush stays wet. Apply paint liberally to area. A number of colors can be applied at once.
  4. After the area has been covered with paint, take a sponge and with horizontal strokes wipe the paint from area. Do not remove all the paint. The purpose is to obtain slight streaks of oil paint on the acrylic base. The image shows the first layer of application and wiping.
  5. This procedure can be repeated with different colors so that 4 or 5 transparent layers can be created.
  6. Upon completion, clean brush with white spirit. Let parts dry in a dry and dustless environment. Drying will take 4-5 days. Upon drying, apply a layer of clear acrylic lacquer or orange and yellows by Tamiya.


De Havilland Mosquito in the IAF   By: Ilan Warshai
During the years 1948-1958 the IAF has operated the Mosquito. 86 aircraft were supplied to Israel, and at their peak three different squadrons operated about 40 aircraft (many were held in dry storage). About 30 crashed during 5 years. In the IAF the Mosquito was unique in introducing navigators to fighter aircraft, performing aerial photography and long range missions, demonstrating an unprecedented capability to deliver heavy loads of weapons, and pioneering in the field of radar interception. Their last combat sorties were during the 1956 Sinai campaign.
The Mosquito was a very successful aircraft. Designed during WWII, it was mainly built of wood which made it lightweight compared to other aircraft. Coupled with a pair of powerful engines it became a very quick aircraft with exceptional ceiling and range performance. Over 7,700 aircraft were manufactured.
The model in the IAF was the 16 model (an unarmed reconnaissance model). The IAF first Mosquito, a PR Mk.XVI, was smuggled in from the UK in 1948 and was operated by squadron 103 until 1951.
In 1950 Israel decided to purchase about 60 ex-French Mosquito aircraft. The deal was signed in early 1951. Israelis went to France to make the surplus aircraft serviceable and between June 1951 and November 1952 most were ferried to Israel by hired British pilots. Four different models were purchased: T Mk.III – dual controls trainer, FB Mk.VI – fighter bomber with guns, two bomb racks on the wings and two bombs in the belly, PR Mk.XVI – for high altitude photography, NF Mk.30 - all-weather interceptor.
In June 1951 squadron 109 was established as the first IAF Mosquito squadron. It actually started flying only a year later, at wing 4 in Hatzor AFB. During the first 18 months of active service, 11 aircraft crashed and 7 crew members were killed. The aircraft were old and the heat in Israel had an effect on the wood, two aircraft actually disintegrated in flight. Over 30 were written off in just 5 years of service.

In August 1953 squadron 110 was established. It was intended for training and conversion and during emergencies to operate the FB Mk.VI fighter bombers and the NF Mk.30 night fighters. In 1954 a radar system was installed, so for a brief period they were used for night interception training. This was soon stopped.
Squadron 109 started reconnaissance flights in 1953. During 1954-1956 Flight 115 flew a number of reconnaissance missions over Arab countries. Missions were carried out deep over Egypt and Iraq, where Jews/Israelis were held prisoners, for altitudes of 20,000 and 30,000 feet using various types of cameras.
Operating three units and the high attrition rate due to crashes required more aircraft. In the summer of 1954, 4 additional T Mk.IIIs arrived from France. Soon afterwards a deal was signed for 20 aircraft from the UK, 13 of which were TR Mk.33s. Upon completion of this deal there 60 Mosquitos in the IAF inventory, but only about 40 were in active service.
August and September of 1955 were tensed, as Israel carried out two raids on the Gaza strip and two EAF vampires were downed. Egypt closed the Tiran straights for Israeli shipping. A war did not break out, but Egypt was to receive MiG-15 jet aircraft. Israel signed two deals to receive Ouragans and Mysteres. In October 1955 squadron 110 was deactivated, and in May 1956 squadron 109 followed. The reconnaissance aircraft continued to fly in the squadron115. It continued to fly with some additional converted PR Meteors, and moved to Tel Nof.
At the end of October 1956 some Mosquito aircraft were brought out of cold storage in preparation for the Sinai Campaign. Squadron 110 was reactivated. It logged 60 attack missions during the war, while Squadron 115 performed some photography during the war, but mostly with the converted Meteors.
Squadron 110 continued flying until March 1957 when all propeller squadrons were deactivated, except for one reserve Mustang squadron at Tel Nof. Squadron 115 continued to carry out missions, but in the spring of 1958 it was decided to disband it. In November 1958 the last of the Mosquitos finished their service in the IAF.
Most of the Mosquitos were painted silver. NF Mk.30s were painted black and the trainers were painted yellow. IAF roundels were usually painted in six locations, but sometimes the upper wing ones were not painted. In late 1955 all surviving aircraft were painted in the tan/blue camouflage scheme.



"Real" painting of IAF combat aircraft By: Ofer Zidon
Model builders try to paint their models as accurately as possible, while trying to follow the manufactures finish and scheme. But we cannot always trust the IAF technicians as to how aircraft are painted. Many of our models at exhibitions would receive critic as to an inaccurate paint job. Over the years I have encountered many times bad paint jobs by the IAF which would not have been approved by IPMS modelers. I have collected a number of pictures for those of us that the painting of the model is not their strong forte showing that even real aircraft have bad paint jobs.

  1. F-16D #088 displays extensive chipping on its vertical stabilizer's leading edge, a common feature of IAF Barak aircraft. Note the overspray of the eagle's silhouette.
  2. F-16C #307 displays a unique off-yellow/green finish, sprayed over previously tan surfaces. The IAF roundel is highly faded.
  3. F-16D #041 upon its return to active status in early 2012, after seven years of intense repair. Do try to paint your model like this Barak…
  4. Vast dirty surfaces on top of the wings and centre fuselage of F-16D #034.
  5. F-16B #998 features various panel replacements, faded IAF roundel and extensive chipping.
  6. Extensive overspray and incorrect general position of the snake silhouette on an IAF AH-1F.



1:35 M1078 LMTV By: Richard Magal
Trucks have always been part of any war effort. Today Trucks are more powerful, comfortable for the drivers, and include MRAP – Mine resistant ambush protection. The truck described in this article is the M1078. Used by the US forces, it is based on a BAe systems truck and is manufactured by Oshkosh USA.
The model is a 1:35 scale by Trumpeter. The plastic part sprues are grey. The kit includes decals for two versions, a sprue with transparent parts and PE. Construction starts with the chassis, mainly adding the various parts to the two main rails. There is only a bottom of the engine in the kit, with little detail. After a bit of hard work I had a chassis with dampers. Next stage was the addition of fuel tank and storage lockers. I used the original rubber tire set. There are resin updates, but the originals work quite well.
Next was the driver cab. It is supplied as a complete unit with closed doors and no roof opening. I only opened the roof for the machine gun by drilling small holes and then sanding. I used a gun mount rim from another model. The interior of the cabin was inaccurate and missing a lot of detail. The only correction I did was the folding of the middle seat. I did some chipping, and added some mud pigments for a dirty finish.
Next the bed was installed along with air filter, cage for spare tire and mudguards.
I did not use primer for painting. All windows were masked along with headlights and taillights. I used the NATO camouflage scheme using Tamiya XF-67, XF-68 and XF-69. After painting I applied the decals. Then I performed an oil paint based wash, using brown diluted in white spirit. I let the model dry for a day and then added more wash at specific points. Using masking tape I created a wiper area on the windshield, and using AK interactive products created a wiper effect. I also used rust effect in wheel wells as well as fuel effect on tanks.
My big head ache was selecting the load for the truck. I decide on a load of artillery shells for 155mm and 203mm guns made by AFV club. I placed the shells on the bed and covered the center area by a self made tarp from tissue paper and white glue. I tied it down with olive drab sewing thread, giving it a real tie down effect.






HPM 1:72 Nesher/Dagger kits By: Yoav Efrati
I was fortunate to receive the new 1:72 High Plane Models (HPM) Israeli Nesher and Argentinean Dagger kits for review. Since part assembly is identical, my kit build review is applicable to both kits. I built my model out of sequence with the instructions in order to avoid damaging delicate parts. The fit of the parts is problematic, so dry fit prior to cement application is advised. My assembly sequence began with the joining of the wings, followed by wings to centre fuselage, nose radome, exhaust shroud, intakes, dorsal fuel tank, vertical fin, small intakes, wind shield and canopy.
The kit’s deep recessed detail serves the modeler well in dealing with areas of problem fit. The recessed panel lines remain in place even after sanding flush the intakes, exhaust shroud, vertical fin and wing root joints. To my delight, the best fitting part was found to be the windshield. In attaching the windshield, The kit multi part ejection seat fits fine, looks good under a closed canopy and does not need trimming to fit inside the cockpit. The only change I made to the seat was replacing the overhead ejection handles with copper wire and adding a copper wire ejection handle forward of the seat cushion. The clear parts are crystal clear, strong and flexible.
The Argentinean air force Daggers were refurbished IAI built Nesher airframes. The colors applied were of local Israeli manufacturer Tambur, who uses German RAL standard colors. Consequently, SEA Tactical scheme colors applied to the Dagger by IAI do not meet FS595 color standards. The closest RAL colors are RAL 1019, 6003, 6015 and 7047. For the turquoise blue identification panels I used Xtracolor X629.
Kit decals were applied with Future Klear being used as both base underneath and softener above each decal. The upper wing walkways, speed brake markings, and lower fuselage yellow/black diagonal rectangles were taken from a spare Mirage sheet, while all other decals came from the kit. With weathering complete, the following items were added: a metal stapler probe fwd of the windshield, a metal rod AOA probe on the left side of the nose, kit provided blade antennas under the nose and aft the canopy, horizontal antenna to each side of the fin, exhaust, landing gear and doors.
HPM’s Nesher (Eagle in Hebrew) kit differs from their Dagger only in box art, painting instructions and decals. The Nesher pair I opted to build attained their first kill on the same day January 8th 1973 in air to air action against Syrian MiG-21s.
Nesher 16 is modeled for a dual mission role, fitted with a centreline bomb rack as well as air to air missiles. The Multiple Ejection Rack (MER) fitted to the Nesher is an extended rack made from two MERs fond in Hasegawa’s Bomb Set X72-1. In the rush to dispatch the fighters, fuel tanks taken out of moth balls were loaded without bothering to remove the translucent red nylon preservative coating. This was replicated by spraying Tamiya clear red diluted with alcohol over the Humbrol 11 Silver painted fuel tanks. The low adhesion of the clear red enabled me to simulate chipping by simply scraping the paint with a finger nail. To preserve the delicate finish, the fuel tanks were then covered with a layer of Future Klear. The Shafrir II’s were scratch built from Evergreen tubing and sheet plastic and the missile rails taken from an Italeri Kfir.
Nesher 510 depicts a post-1973 Nesher, with the prefix 5 added to the two digit aircraft number. The yellow and black identification were added on October 14th 1973 after Egyptian and Libyan Mirage V jets had taken part in the war.
Both models were painted underneath with Testors Model Masters FS 35622, and a top surface camouflage consisting of Xtracolor X105 sand, Humbrol 119 tan and Xtracolor X148 green. The exhaust sections were painted Xtracolor X508 Burnt Iron, the inner lining was brush painted X628 Wheel Hub Green and the complete assembly given a wash of Tamiya X-19 Smoke. The kit provided 1300 litre and 500 litre (supersonic) tanks fitted to Nesher 510 were sprayed Humbrol 11 Silver with Tamiya clear yellow over spray and oil paint scuff marks.
Conclusion: The parts fit of the HPM Nesher/Dagger is better than one gets from a typical limited run kit. At first glance, the kit’s panel line detail appears excessive, yet once painted the detail becomes less obtrusive. The overall shape of the kit screams out Mirage. When the completed model is displayed alongside other 1:72 scale Mirage kits, its shape is by far the best rendition of the Mirage in that scale.



Arleigh Burke DDG-51 in 1:700 scale By: Eyal Reinfeld
I selected a model by Hobby Boss. When I opened the box I was quite happy with the model, very good castings. PE was including and I only some extra railings to complete the model. First I opted for a waterline model, as a ship steaming in the water looks much better.
I will hereby elaborate on my ship model building technique. Reading the instructions is very important for planning the build stages. After a number of ship models, my conclusion is to first build the hull and as many of the other sections, as long as they do not interfere with the subsequence painting of the deck. At this stage I attach as much of the railing that I can. They are usually supplied in long strips. I use medium thickness super glue for his purpose. The problem is that the glue can dry before the railing is positioned properly. I solve this by shortening the strips and applying the glue to the ship itself. I also use the method of attaching the railing in place with masking tape and then apply the glue. I try to place the railing before painting both. When I cannot do this I first paint the railing, and then glue the railing in place.
When the hull is completed I start with the upper deck structures. At this stage I check my references so that all the railings are in the correct locations. All the structures are glued in place with the railings, as long as they do not interfere with the deck painting. All the other parts (cannons, missiles, rescue boats, masts) are painted on the sprues.
When all the parts have been glued in place I spray the model with a coat of grey primer. Most modern battleships are painted in light grey and it takes number of coats to cover the PE parts. To paint the structures I mount them on toothpicks. After the primer has dried I used XF-19 to paint this model. I sprayed the parts with two layers of X-22 lacquer for decal application. This gloss gives the model the look of a real modern combat vessel.
At this stage I started to work on the base. In order to glue the model to the base you have to use some force, so the hull has to be glued to the base before the upper structures have been added. I prefer to finish the painting of the base before gluing the hull. I prepared a piece of wood long enough to accommodate the hull with just enough water around it. On the wood I glued a piece of Kappa and marked the hull outline with a pencil. The waves were sculptured and painted with various shades of blue, while the wake was painted in shades of white.
I now returned to the ship and painted the decks with a dark grey and then painted the remaining details. In this case the radars, life boats, funnel windows and helicopter were all painted by brush. At this stage I made corrections to paint overrun with a brush dipped in light grey. Future was applied where decals go.
At this stage there are two possibilities: applying the wash at certain locations before adding the structures, or gluing everything in place and then applying the wash. It depends on how many types of wash you want to apply. In this case, since I was using only one wash I glued everything in place and then applied it. I started by gluing the hull to the base with a large amount of super glue. I then glued the superstructure in place. Where required I made repairs with light grey.
Weathering ships is like aircraft and must be carried out evenly and carefully. I used a dark grey oil paint mixed with white spirit. I applied the wash on the deck and after drying did some dry brush with light grey for specific locations.
The last stage is the rigging, being a modern ship there is not much rigging and ropes. For rigging I use a thin nylon fishing cord which I glue to the railings and then rig according to reference pictures. I also added Eduard figures and life savers. I then finished with the flags supplied in the kit.



Futuristic warrior By: Simon Lederman
I built a Battle uniform type KETZER that is used by the MAK infantry. The suit is controlled by a single soldier that sits in it. The kit includes 8 part sprues, rubber parts for joints and various flexible pipes. A detailed instruction book and a decal sheet are included.
The model is not difficult to build but includes internal and moving parts, so paying attention to the instructions is crucial. I first built the soldier and then the suit. I applied a layer of Mr. Surfacer 500 to obtain a welded surface look. I decided to add the side helmet panels and face plate after painting, this took a little preparation. I now added the various limbs, and the hand was set with bent fingers to hold a rocket launcher. Most modelers do not use the rubber joints but create their own, which I did from Magic Sculpt. I then sprayed the whole model with grey primer and painted the soldier with Vallejo acrylics
I used a flesh color base and then used a worn effect on the whole model. I then used a reddish color and with a wet brush removed paint as if it had peeled off from various areas such as the boots and various protection surfaces. I then sprayed a layer of glossy lacquer for decal application. I painted the inside of the suit English uniform grey 921. Shading was carried out with Dark Prussian Blue 899. Joints were painted in the same manner, leather parts in brown 871. Various metal parts were painted matt black and only afterwards with dry brush using Oily steel 865.
I made the base from a Piece of MDF with Kapa pieces added for correct height. I added bits and pieces from old MAK kits along with stones and mosaic stones to create a battle ground effect which was painted matt black. I then used English uniform and silver grey 883 to achieve a burnt out effect using cold and dark colors for the effect. I also used rust effects.